“A people without the knowledge of their past history, origin, and culture is like a tree without roots.”
—Marcus Garvey.
Perched atop Mengo Hill in Kampala, the Kabaka’s Palace in Mengo (Lubiri) stands as a powerful symbol of Buganda’s monarchy, resilience, and historical significance.
This palace, known locally as Twekobe, is more than just the official residence of the Kabaka (King) of Buganda—it’s a witness to both grandeur and turmoil.
From its origins in 1885 under Kabaka Mwanga II to its tragic destruction in 1966 during Uganda’s political upheaval, this site embodies the intricate past of Buganda and Uganda as a whole.
A Legacy of Power and Tradition
Buganda, the largest and most influential kingdom in Uganda, has always held a unique place in the nation’s story. Its rulers, the Kabakas, were so powerful that even the British granted them considerable autonomy during the colonial period.
The Lubiri has been the official royal residence for generations, dating back to the late 19th century when Kabaka Mwanga II commissioned its construction.
But this palace is more than just a royal home. It is a living testament to Buganda’s ability to adapt, resist, and endure.
From its early days to the political upheavals of the 20th century, the palace has stood as a witness to Uganda’s turbulent history.
The Architectural and Cultural Significance
The palace, often called “Twekobe,” meaning “working together,” is more than just a cluster of grand buildings. It embodies the spirit of unity that defines the Buganda Kingdom.
Sitting on a vast expanse of land, the Lubiri is marked by its distinct architectural features and carefully planned layout.
Four Gates with Unique Purposes
Each of the palace’s four gates serves a specific role:
- The Wankaci Gate is strictly for the Kabaka, Queen, and Prime Minister.
- The Kalala Gate was historically used by the Kabaka to select wives.
- The Nalongo Gate is dedicated to receiving gifts, particularly from mothers of twins, a special cultural honor.
- Lastly, the Ssabagabo Gate is an escape route, used only by the Kabaka in secrecy.
Twekobe and the Bulange Connection
A long road, exclusively for the Kabaka, connects the palace to Bulange, the administrative headquarters of the Buganda Kingdom.
At the heart of this road is a significant roundabout known as Lukoma Nantawetwa, meaning “I do not bend for anyone,” emphasizing the Kabaka’s supreme authority.
A Living Museum of Buganda’s Clans
Surrounding the palace are trees, each representing one of Buganda’s 56 clans. This is more than a landscaping choice—it’s a deeply symbolic feature that ties the palace to the very fabric of Buganda society.
The 1966 Crisis: When the Palace Became a Battlefield
Few places in Uganda have seen as much political drama as Lubiri.
The most defining moment came in 1966 when Uganda’s first Prime Minister, Milton Obote, ordered an attack on the palace.
Tensions had been rising between the central government and the Buganda Kingdom, and when Kabaka Mutesa II resisted Obote’s new constitution, the conflict reached a breaking point.
Obote, aided by a young Idi Amin, sent troops to storm the palace. The royal war drums sounded, calling Buganda’s subjects to defend their king.
But against heavily armed soldiers, they stood little chance.
After intense fighting, the palace was overrun, forcing Mutesa II into exile. The aftermath was brutal—mass graves were filled, the palace was ransacked, and Buganda’s autonomy was effectively crushed.
Today, as you walk through the Lubiri, the scars of that battle remain. The once-glorious residence still bears the weight of its violent past, making it an essential site for understanding Uganda’s political evolution.
The Darkest Chapter: Idi Amin’s Torture Chambers
If the 1966 attack was a political tragedy, the 1970s brought an era of pure horror. Under President Idi Amin’s regime, the Lubiri was no longer a palace—it became a house of terror.
Amin converted a section of the palace into a brutal torture chamber.
Built between 1971 and 1972 with assistance from Israeli engineers (initially as an armory), the underground cells became a place where thousands of Ugandans met their deaths.
The chambers were designed with electrified water barriers—if prisoners tried to escape, they would be electrocuted instantly.
The cramped, windowless cells held hundreds at a time, subjecting them to unbearable conditions before they were ultimately executed.
Standing inside these dark tunnels today, the walls still bear haunting messages scratched by prisoners. It’s a sobering reminder of Uganda’s darkest days and a crucial lesson in the dangers of unchecked power.
The Fire That Never Dies – The Ekyooto
Despite its painful history, the Lubiri remains a place of resilience and tradition.
At the entrance, a sacred fire, the Ekyooto, burns day and night. This is no ordinary fire—it is a symbol of continuity, ensuring the kingdom’s spirit never dies.
The responsibility of keeping the fire alive rests with a lineage of guardians from the Nyonyi Nakisinge clan.
For centuries, they have ensured that the flame never goes out, reinforcing Buganda’s belief in the eternal nature of its monarchy.
Visiting the Kabaka’s Palace Today
The Lubiri is more than a historical site—it is an experience. When you visit, expect to be immersed in a story that is as tragic as it is inspiring.
Guided Tours
Knowledgeable guides walk visitors through the palace grounds, explaining its history, architecture, and cultural significance. They provide chilling details about the torture chambers and uplifting narratives about Buganda’s heritage.
Stunning City Views
Perched atop Mengo Hill, the palace offers panoramic views of Kampala. The vantage point alone is worth the visit.
A Deep Cultural Experience
Unlike typical historical sites, the Lubiri isn’t frozen in time. It remains an active symbol of Buganda’s living traditions, making every visit uniquely engaging.
Final Thoughts
The Kabaka’s Palace in Mengo Lubiri is a place where history breathes.
It’s where royalty reigned, where battles were fought, where dictators unleashed terror, and where a nation found resilience.
Whether you’re drawn by its political history, architectural beauty, or cultural depth, visiting Lubiri is an unforgettable journey into the soul of Uganda.
Walk its grounds. Listen to its stories. Stand in the shadows of history. And most importantly, remember. Because places like this aren’t just meant to be seen—they are meant to be felt.
